A Personal Guide to Ubud, Bali
- elomoutier
- May 24
- 11 min read
After spending a year living in Ubud, the spiritual and cultural heart of Bali, I’ve recently returned to Europe.
Nestled in the lush Balinese jungle and surrounded by rice fields, Ubud offers a rich variety of food, activities, and a deep dive into local culture.
As the most visited city in Indonesia, Ubud is a must-see for anyone traveling to Bali. A guide to the city’s many attractions almost feels essential — and it felt only natural to share my favorite spots in the place I’ve called home for the past year.
Restaurants & Bars
Warung Gauri: a warung (or waroeng) is a local shop or restaurant, usually owned and run by a Balinese family. Warung Gauri is located near the city centre, on a quiet street facing the rice fields, and offers tasty local cuisine in a warm, cosy atmosphere. The restaurant has an indoor garden in which you can dine and have lunch, surrounded by traditional Balinese architecture and decorations. Ideal for anyone craving an authentic local meal in a beautiful tranquil setting.
Locavore: Ubud has seen the development of many fine dining restaurants over the last decade, and Locavore is one of them. As the name suggests, the chefs only work with local ingredients, some of which are grown directly in the restaurant. Strongly committed to creating and developing a new way of consumption in the food industry, their new restaurant Locavore NXT is an experience in itself. From the very modern design to the incredible 30 courses menu, Locavore NXT hosts some of the most talented new chefs of SouthEast Asia. If you are looking for an elevated fine dining experience, this is definitely the place to be. You will need to book a table on their website or through WhatsApp.
Clear Café: an institution in Ubud, Clear Café is right in the city centre. After entering through what feels like a Hobbit door (and taking your shoes off), you will immediately be taken by the modern and unique decoration. From the pond with the koi fish, to the lively paintings, and the spa on the first floor, Clear Café will inspire you. Whatever you choose from their healthy and delicious menu will delight your taste buds. Try their lavender infused water with your food, it’s delicious!
Home Café Jatayu: one of my favorite cafés, Home Café Jatayu is the perfect place for an afternoon of work. I loved going there at lunch time, typing away on my computer, while eating one of their delicious bowls and sipping an amazing cup of tea. The comfortable chairs and benches, reliable wifi connection and somewhat minimalist yet warm decoration really create the perfect atmosphere for focus and inspiration.
Odette: Located in the south of Ubud, Odette is famous for its delicious pastries, good coffee and low-key vibe. This was my go-to place to write as I loved the soothing music, their very comfortable sofas and overall great food. They also have a beautiful garden if you prefer sitting outside.
Garden Kafe: Garden Kafe is the restaurant at the Yoga Barn, THE place to practice yoga in Ubud. The venue is huge and features around 10 different yoga shalas, a pool area, private bedrooms, and a restaurant - Garden Kafe. Even if you don’t practice yoga, I would recommend to at least go eat there once, as the space is really beautiful and the food is great. Their kitcheree bowl and hot ginger lime honey are a must!
Lokal Bar: Ubud is full or bars and restaurants playing live music in the evening, and Lokal Bar is one of them. Local bands play there every night from 7pm to 10pm, and like most places in Bali, you can enjoy a cold drink in a beautiful garden and open space. Lokal Bar also offers a food menu, and while the food is perfectly fine, I would recommend to go there only for drinks, as you can find tastier options close by. The vibe is super relaxed, the music is usually very good, and the space is quite big, which leaves you the option to sit a bit further away from the band if you don’t like loud music. All in all, it’s a really good place for a casual evening, whether with your romantic partner, a group of friends, or even by yourself.
Laughing Buddha: Laughing Buddha is THE reference when talking about live music in Ubud. Every night, amazing bands come and play in this small restaurant located on the famous Jalan Monkey Forest. The food is excellent and their menu features amazing vegan options. The only downside is that the space is quite small compared to other places in Bali, so the music is very loud. To avoid if you want a quiet evening, otherwise I highly recommend it.
Littletalks: this delightful little café located on Jalan Bisma is a jewel in Ubud. Part restaurant, part library, it is always such a pleasure to come into this space and enjoy one of their really good coffees with a smoothie bowl or avocado toast. A shelter away from the hustle and bustle of the city, the place is amazing to recharge, read a book, or journal.
Blend Cafe: Blend Café is in the south of Ubud, close to the Monkey Forest. In my opinion, they make the best smoothie bowls in Bali, and each of them is a work of art. If you don’t want to go there, at least order one of their bowls on Gojek or Grab (the local Uber), they are truly delicious!
Golden Monkey: surprisingly, finding good asian food in Bali, besides Indonesian food, is not that easy. Golden Monkey specializes in Chinese food and is one of the rare few. If you go there, try the dumplings and their spicy dipping sauce, you won’t regret it.
Pomegranate Cafe: Pomegranate Café is located in an area of Ubud that I particularly like called Sweet Orange walk. This is a wonderful place to watch the sunset, surrounded by palm trees and the lush greenery of the rice fields. You will sometimes share your table with a friendly gecko and you can often spot fireflies at night time. If you want to stay for dinner, just keep in mind that the Café closes at 9pm.
Rüsters: in the south Ubud, between the neighborhood of Lodtunduh and the centre, Rüsters is one of the most beautiful spaces in the city. The restaurant features 4 different areas, a few of which display stunning views over the rice fields. Every Friday, they organize a live jazz music event from 7pm to 10pm, and offer pottery classes everyday upon reservation. The property also counts a traditional Chinese tea house and a design store. Try their espresso glazed croissant, it’s excellent!
La Cantina Rooftop: set high above the famous Campuhan Ridge walk, La Cantina Rooftop offers a modern bistro inspired menu, coupled with one of the best temple views of the city. Located on top of Boliche, one of the most exclusive bars in Ubud, you will be able to enjoy great DJ sets on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 8pm.
Spas
Synergy massage: Bali is famous for its massages, and Ubud is no exception. Synergy Spa is the first massage place I went to when I arrived, and it soon became one of my favorites. This small spa counts only a few rooms, but their traditional Balinese massage is one of the best I tried during my year in Bali. If the price is a little bit higher than some other places (250K IDR for a 75mn massage), it’s definitely worth it. The welcome is thoughtful and soothing, with aromatic water offered on arrival and herbal tea always available after your treatment.
Serenity Natural spa: another very good spa in Ubud, with an emphasis on natural products. Their massage oils are all homemade, blending coconut oil with flowers or herbs (I particularly liked the ylang-ylang one). The therapists are very gifted and always make sure that the pressure is adapted to your body and needs. The lemongrass and ginger hot water and the fruit skewers at the end of the treatment are a very nice touch.
Audry’s spa: this spa feels a bit more « industrial ». The welcome is not as warm as in the other two, but the massage is one of the best I ever had. I always go for the traditional Balinese treatment, which I highly recommend. Unfortunately, they don’t serve the traditional tea that you usually get at the end.
Activities
The Yoga Barn: as I mentioned earlier, The Yoga Barn is one of the must-visit in Ubud. Whether you want to practice yoga, have fun at an ecstatic dance event, or relax with sound healing, you can find pretty much anything there. Being one of the most famous places in Ubud, the sessions are usually quite full, but somehow it never really bothered me. I really encourage you to go there and try one of their many offerings, it’s usually worth it. If I had one class to recommend it would be the Yin and Acupressure with Winé (usually on Thursdays at 11.30am). It is a highly relaxing and restorative experience.
Neka art museum: created in 1982, this museum was founded by a Balinese art collector. Designed to reflect the architecture of a traditional Balinese family compound, the museum encourages the visitor to walk through different galleries, starting from classical Indonesian paintings to contemporary art, as well as pieces from foreign artists living in Bali.
Tirta Empul & Gunung Kawi temples: Bali is known for its many temples, and Ubud is no exception. Two of the most iconic temples are on the outskirts of the city, and pretty close from one another. Tirta Empul is probably one of the most visited temples of the island, famous for its water ceremonies. Gunung Kawi is much less crowded, nonetheless highly recommended. Dating from the 11th century, this exceptional temple houses a sanctuary carved directly into the cliff. The lush tropical vegetation surrounding it, juxtaposed to the incredible architecture creates a very unique and timeless atmosphere.
Ubud Art Market: Art is a big component of Balinese culture and is still very present in the island’s lifestyle. The Art Market of Ubud is quite famous and hosts many booths with traditional woodwork, jewelry, clothing, small kitchenware, etc. If it is clearly designed for tourists, it is a nice place to visit to buy gifts for your loved ones - or for yourself. As in many places in Bali, you are expected to negotiate the price and the shop owners will often ask you what is your price. You will find a lot of art markets in Ubud, but the original one is situated on the left of the Ubud Palace, right next to Starbucks.
Kecak Fire Dance: when in Bali, this traditional dance originally accompanying the trances during the rituals, is a must. A choir of about 100 men sits in a circle and percussively chant « chak ». Other performers in the middle of the circle execute the precise movements characteristic of traditional Balinese dance, and tell the story of Prince Rama and the monkey god Hanuman from the Ramayana.This very impressive performance is unique to the island and absolutely worth seeing. I recommend going to the Pura Puseh temple in Jalan Suweta to see the performance. It is recommended to book in advance, and you can book directly with them through WhatsApp.
Sweet Orange walk trail: this trail in the rice fields boasts amazing nature views and is accessible right from the city centre. You can find many restaurants, hotels and spas along the path, without it taking away from the beauty of the place. The walk is super easy and a great way to connect to Balinese culture and nature. Not to be confused with another hiking trail nearby called Campuhan Ridge walk.
Thai monks meditation: on Saturday mornings, Thai Buddhist monks from Bali Meditation Center lead a 1h meditation from 10 to 11am at the Indian restaurant Chai of the Tiger. This event is donation based and occurs after a 1h yoga class, also donation based. The monks embody a very serene, kind energy, which is felt throughout the whole event. If you want to take a moment to relax and a nice way to start the day, this might be just what you are looking for. Just be mindful, there are two Chai of the Tiger restaurants in Ubud, the events are occurring in the one located on Jalan Bisma.
Watch a movie in Paradiso: from Wednesday to Sunday, this vegan restaurant opens the room upstairs and it becomes a cinema. Sitting on one of the cosy sofas, while ordering delicious snacks and drinks, is a very cool way to watch a movie. The ticket is only 75K, which includes a 60K voucher for food and drinks. You can check out the program directly on their Facebook page. I truly recommend the experience on a rainy day in Ubud or for a casual Sunday with family or friends.
Periplus bookstore: If you ever want to buy a book, tarot cards or comic books while in Bali, Periplus bookstore is a great place to do so. The bookseller is part of a big chain in SouthEast Asia and offers a great variety of western and asian publications. You can find several Periplus bookstores in Ubud, but I recommend going to the one on Jalan Raya Pengosekan.
Hotels
Sujeni House: this hotel is located on the Sweet Orange Walk, in the middle of the rice fields. The rooms are spacious and waking up with a cup of tea on the terrace with the sounds of the birds and the serenity of the surrounding nature is truly an amazing experience. A big plus is the common kitchen area, and the water fountain. The only thing to be mindful of is that the hotel isn’t accessible by car. If you carry a lot of luggage with you, the car will need to stop in the main street and the hotel staff can pick you up with a motorbike and help you get your baggage to the hotel.
Umala at Bisma: situated near the Monkey Forest, Umala at Bisma is also a great option to stay in Ubud. Close to Jalan Bisma, the establishment is relatively calm and very conveniently placed. They serve a nice breakfast every morning, the rooms are clean and comfortable, and you can often spot monkeys from your bedroom. Speaking of which, monkeys can be playful beings, so it is recommended to lock your bedroom door and leave nothing on your terrace. If you come by car, you will need to stop in Jalan Bisma and continue by foot for the last few meters, as the street leading to the hotel is very narrow.
Quick tips
Best time to visit: Bali enjoys a warm tropical climate year-round, with a rainy season that typically runs from October to May. October and May are actually great months to visit the island, with fewer tourists and very little rain. November and December are usually to be avoided, as the monsoon is typically stronger during these months. That being said, the weather can change pretty quickly and rain can occur even during dry season. July is the busiest month in Bali as many foreign and local tourists come to the island at this time of year.
Getting around: traffic in Bali has increased a lot over the last years and roads are often congested. For short distances, motorbikes are the most efficient way to get around. You can very easily book motorbike taxis via Gojek and Grab or rent your own if you’re ready to tackle Balinese traffic. I rented mine from Govin Rental and can wholeheartedly recommend him.
Dress code for temples: to enter Balinese Hindu temples, you will need to cover your shoulders and wear a traditional sarong - a long piece of fabric tied around your waist. Most temples provide them at the entrance, but you can also buy your own at the Art Market.
Water in Bali: tap water in Bali isn’t safe to drink, and it’s generally advised to avoid raw vegetables, salads, and ice. That said, I often ate salads and had iced drinks, but generally speaking it’s never 100% safe. It is also recommended to use clean mineral water for cooking or brushing your teeth (I always did). Carrying a reusable bottle is a good idea too, as many places have water fountains.
I hope this guide helps make your time in Ubud smoother and even more enjoyable — whether you’re settling in or just passing through.If you’d like more tips on traveling to Bali, feel free to reach out — I’d be happy to help.
Enjoy your time in beautiful Bali! And if you have the chance to explore beyond, I highly recommend visiting some of Indonesia’s other islands — the country is home to some of the most stunning natural landscapes in the world.
Terima kasih 🙏
🗺️ Bonus: Check out my custom Google Map of Ubud with all locations pinned!
